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zoomzoom
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Post by zoomzoom »

temp censer I thinking just that you get a ten min run then it shits itself and floods
just a thought




zoomzoom
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

WILL IT EVER END !!!! my gbox shat itself this arvo, gonna try and have a look in it over the next day to see exactly what happened
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Damo
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Post by Damo »

There is definitely a problem of some description. When we were susing it out in the driveway, the hand control screen 'seemed' slow, like it was getting a low voltage. Then a couple of times the screen went to jiberish and the controller became non functional until the engine was shut down and restarted.
Then whilst sitting and idling at operating temp, you could hear it change to what seemed like a different map. Everything else appeared the same, but refusal to rev or take load. Then it would magically sort itself out after a random amount of time. The only thing that I found when being difficult, was the TPS reading would go haywire, randomly jumping from 0 to 30% in a very non linear fashion. We measured the resistance of the TPS on the engine, but everything seemed o.k. I attempted to match the idle map to the load map to remove the possible transition problem between the two, but no good. So I figured the easiest way to prove that was to swap the TPS for a working 2nd hand one.

The hand control screen shenanigans still has me wondering though.


Damo
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

got a new gearbox sorted out, coming from WA, getting my mechanic to fit it for me aswell. $550 and should be sorted by wednesday
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Damo
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Post by Damo »

poeticjustice88 wrote:got a new gearbox sorted out, coming from WA, getting my mechanic to fit it for me aswell. $550 and should be sorted by wednesday
Nice. You will have the busted one as a spare which you drop the N13 bits into when you one.



Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

OK
Based on Damos words, Im guessing that the Microtech has an earth side issue.
Its most likely within the Microtech loom itself.

Ground the entire system to CHASSIS or directly to battery -ive. DO NOT ground the system to the original earth point on the engine.

Next, ensure that the water and air temp sensors are grounded back directly to the ECU via the loom wiring. This is CRUCIAL!
Grounding these sensors to the engine will mess with the ECU's head big time due to looping and RFI.

Now, I had the exact same issues with my old FJ20 and the drama was the earth wiring in the Microtech loom itself. The sensor grounds are BROWN but the earth wire is BLACK and they are just wound together and soldered and the soldering job "appeared" good but turned out to be shizen! Dont ask how i found out... thats a long read for another time!
Pull all the wiring out of the plastic tube, cut and re-solder each and every connection to the ground wires.

L8r
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

as a thought, if i was thinking of getting a new transistor, the little metal thing with two wires that goes to my coil, what type would i get ? there are no numbers on my current one so i dont know what to look for or what type to get
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Ummmm BIM027 (0 227 100 124) ( I think)

Its been a while since Ive used a single coil setup but try this number and make sure you confirm that its a single channel "DUMB" igniter.

These are about half the price of a replacement Nissan style transistor

You can also use an old Bosch "008" trigger (might be a BIM137)as well which is a "SMART" mudule (controls dwell internally).

L8r
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Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy »

2nd'ed exactly what TAS says above and his numbers are correct.

OR

You could flog one from another ET at the wrecking yard OR any VL commodore

:)

Darren.
Race it.
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

awesome thanks guys, will look into it.

On a duller note, my mechanic had a gearbox sorted out for me, he rang me today to tell me that it fell through as it was a box out of an N/A pulsar.

Fucken Garrrrrrr

If i had the tools, and my back wasnt f*cked, i would rip mine out and just replace/repair what was broken, but i cant. anyone know of a box in good shape for sale ?

there is one on the WTB section except the condition is unkown and i dont want to risk it

Michael
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

ok heard back from my g/box mechanic, told me that the two bearings for my final drive where blown, so he has replaced them, and tightened a fork (?)

$300 and all fixed. YAY

Now, to get a hold of one of you beautiful people to help me fit up :)

I am picking it up at 2:00 this arvo on my lunch break so wil be good to go in tonight. Yippee car for the weekend
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

ok, still have the problem with the little beast not wanting to rev.

drove to robina and back earlier. it drive fine apart from one spit and fart at the lights for a couple of secs, and a tiny bit of hesitation after changing gears, when you get back on the gas.

i have changed nearly every damn part that could affect this, except for injectors. could it be possible that one of them is just blocking itself up at random times ?

also, can anyone tell me some of the key spots for vaccuum leaks ? damo and i have gone over the engine several times, but if i could get some people to list the "weird" or one off vaccuum leaks you have had, that you think may not happen to anyone else, it may help out.

apart from that, the only other things i can think of is wiring. something like a wire grounding out every now and again. or maybe the tune is out, with some ignition settings?

anyway, anything you can think of would be greatly appreciated.

P.S i know people keep telling me to get the wiring redone completely, but it is a bigger job than i care to take on by myself. as i have never done it, i do not want to rewire it, trust me, it would be worse.

Michael
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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy »

OK well it becomes difficult to nail down when these sorts of things come up.

Off the top of my head: I have seen a split top casing in the fuel pressure reg, that seemed to exhibit the problems you are having but only when the engine was super hot! It caused a vacuum leak, that I could never seem to find and also ran lean under power. It seems someone was rough with getting the vacuum tube onto the top of reg and split it somehow....it was a bitch to find and bitch to replace.

back to trouble shooting:

I remember an old automotive instructor at TAFE told me that 80% of problems like this are fuel related because fuel gets old creates scale and other deposits when left old/unused. Whereas electrical items generally suffer corrosion of terminals IE our computer terminals.

So I'd start with the fuel basics: New fuel filter, clean injectors, replace hoses. You need to check fuel pressure (gauge) AND fuel flow (into a measured container) only AFTER you replace the filter with a new one. Measure it at the rail, therfore you are consequently checking that regulator.

If you complete that and you still can't find it, and you've done the obilgatory plugs, leads and rotor button - I'd be looking at cleaning the computer terminals.

After that I'd be trying to source a wide band O2 sensor setup and display so that when the problem occurs you will be able to see if its runnig lean or rich. This will help you considerably. IE lean and you have it nailed toward the fuel system. If its rich (by a large amount) then potentially its not firing and threfore electrical.....Might mean you have that stuff in your car for a week or so, but it will give you more info that you currently have.

CHuck a multimeter in the car. If it fails completely, get onto that CAS and check it. Mine popped and farted like that for months before it finally failed one fine summer day.

Might be also worth going to jaycar and grabbing a can of freeze spray (to cool the CAS) and a terminal cleaner for spraying into the computer plugs aand plugging them in and out a few times.

Post is too long going now
Darren.
Race it.
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

brand new FPR and fuel filter. plugs and leads are all new, cant find a rotor button freakin anywhere to suit. wideband did not tell us much i believe. however damo was the one watching it not it, so i cant recall correctly.
Brand new CAS so i have ruled that out, and i dont see the need in cooling it with the freeze spray as such. already cleaned the terminals on the ECU with contact cleaner.

I was thinking it may be a fueling issue, so i will test the injectors and flow shortly. i may just cut my losses and try and find some bigger injectors to suit. friend of mine has some FJ20 ones he wants $150 for.

But i am leaning towards fuel a little more as when it does piss and fart about, and i put my foot down as this usually clears it up to let me rev again. it just feels like a fuel problem, and often sounds similiar to a 2 step launch control system. i understand that this could point to both fuel and electrical. but i just have my eyes on fuel at the moment.

Damo has been a f*cking wizard and a saint for helping me out with all of this so far. But if it was a fuel problem i think he would have nailed it. so i have no fucken idea :S

Michael
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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy »

Yeah Damo's a bit of gun. He is always so bloddy correct just like Tas.

It certainly sounds like a fuel issue. Did it exhibit the fault when damo hooked up the Wide band? Because Damo would have seen it - assuming you were driving and not trying to hit stuff :) It might have taken a while though if it is so intermittent and even then it would have been quick. A misfire or series of misfires will come through as rich, so it could be hard to see if that misfire was fuel or spark. But if it WASN'T running lean, that might also be a good guide for you.....

Do you mean FJ20DET injectors not FJ20? Because I thought FJ20 were the same as E15ET injectors...Also 2nd hand injectors can be a minefield and FJ's are getting old. I would try and price up a set of new Bosch 044's? Have a guess who I'd talk to for that....yep Damo.

The FJ20DET's I have I cannot to get to flow within 5% of each other - which is not worth placing into a motor that is going to be considerably stressed.

Daren.
Race it.
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