Not sure whats up with my et

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 6:57 am

Hey guys,

Recently got my et running for the first time since i've owned it, fixed my fuel pressure issue with an adjustable fuel reg so thought i'd take it for a lil test drive.

After its warmed up the motor starts revving really high, about 4k. The accelerator cables definitely not pulling on the throttle so i'm just wondering whats causing this. Also when i was driving, as the revs are going up just as the turbo kicks in it looses power and splutters a bit. As soon as you pass that point though the boost is fine.

Another issue i had was i heard compressor surge, this could be because the bov isn't opening for unknown reason (cheap bov) but it there anything i should watch out for, i don't wanna wreck this engine.

Cheers guys.

Sohcturbs · Post by **Sohcturbs** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:49 am

G'day mate,

The revving issue is likely due to the air regulator 4k is pretty high but should be able to be dialled down via the screws on the sirregulator alternatively check out the cold idle valve if it's kaput could be letting a lot of air in.

In regards the stuttering I'd say first bet would be to wriggle the wires into the computer it's a fairly common issue for the wires to have poor connection resulting in this stuttering about 3,000 revs about when it comes on to boost, if you wriggle them just right you can normally find the sweet spot and it'll stay like that till the next time.

The compressor surge shouldn't be a big concern if running the T2 at standard pressures there was no BOV from factory.

Hope this helps a bit.

Cheers,

Dan

SimoN10 · Post by **SimoN10** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:27 am

Hey mate did you fix the problem of your motor reving really high when warm?

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:13 am

Thanks for the reply Dan that helps alot.

"Hey mate did you fix the problem of your motor reving really high when warm?"

I have not yet fixed the revving problem - on my engine it appears the air regulator is no longer there, you can see where it once was but its been welded over by one of the previous owners. I can't find anything to adjust in terms of air so i'm not really sure what to check next. Are you having the same problem?

Cheers.

Sohcturbs · Post by **Sohcturbs** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:29 am

If there is no air regulator then I'd look at the throttle adjusting screw the air has to bypass the throttle some way and if these have been blocked off or not, you either have a big air leak somewhere or the throttle is being held open. without these items though the idle should get even faster when warm.

Can you take a picture of the manifold and sensors to check we're on the same point...

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:20 pm

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/9977/image0272.jpg

Thats a pic of where the sensor should be (right?)

I'll upload a pic of the manifold tomorrow,
Cheers

Sohcturbs · Post by **Sohcturbs** » Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:27 am

yeah sort of it looks like someone took some of the log and put it in front of the turbo which other guys have done and then for some reason removed the sensors and welded it up. Get us a pic of the manifold and then we'll know for sure the state of it.

Without the sensors there no air can get past for cold idle, the only way around it usually is to have the throttle held open with the adjusting screw which then results in a very fast idle once warm, but not in the vicinity of 4000 rpm...

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 4:19 pm

Hey mate thanks for replying. Here are some pics;

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/6185/img4364p.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/9251/img4373in.jpg
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/8459/img4375f.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3954/img4377pm.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2343/img4378bk.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/646/img4380sf.jpg

Its got the vl throttle body, doesn't look like there's much to adjust apart from the throttle cable.

Cheers man

Sohcturbs · Post by **Sohcturbs** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:26 am

No worries no how annoying it can to be to have a car that's not going.. got one sitting in the garage myself haha.

So looking at the pics you have no cold idle sensors.
I'd suggest a couple of things:
1: check all your intake connections to make sure there are no leaks.
2: slip you intake pipe off and look at the throttle and make sure it is physically closing and what sort of gap you have when it closes, there will be some to allow it to idle which is adjusted by the screw on top of the throttle pulley, if you lookat it you"ll see how it works.
3: There are two lines on your BOV where does the top line go that goes into the cabin via the fire wall. You need to make sure this is closing at idle, if you put your ear next to it at idle you shouldn't hear air rushing in or put your hand over the opening and make sure no vacuum.

Finally does the idle speed change at any time?

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:09 pm

Okay just tested it now,

Doesn't seem to be any leaks in any of the intake pipes. The throttle seems to be fine, opens and closes, there is a tiny gap when it is closed.

The bov only has one line (confusing in the pics, the orange cable is actually the positive battery terminal going to the starter motor). I took the one line that goes to the bov off and it does have vacuum when idleing, so it must be connected to the wrong place on the other end, where abouts should it be connected to?

Another thing i noticed when testing it was that throttle response is quite poor, there is lag when you give it a short sharp rev.

The idle speed didn't go anywhere near 4k this time, though i didn't have it running for long (2 mins). The highest it got was 2k, It only really goes up too high when its actually being driven.

Let me know what you think,
Cheers bud.

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 4:50 pm

The bov line must beconnected into the plenum, AFTER the TB. So it sees both boost AND vacuum. It wont work otherwise.
Are you sure your throttle cable is not overtightly adjusted?

Anything holding rpm up will be fairly obvious.

L8r
E

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:18 pm

Hey there,

The bov line is connected as seen in this pic (the blue one)
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/7958/bovline.jpg

It has vacuum even at idling, is this normal? The bov doesn't seem to be opening just by revving it, and i can't tell if it is when i drive it because the exhaust is off and its freakin' loud lol.

The throttle cable was indeed a bit tight, so i've loosened and its fine now. I know the 4k revving wasn't caused by this though. When i tested it just before the idling was fine.

I turned it off for a while, went to turn it back on but it won't start now. It was flooding before i put the adjustable fuel reg in and it did the same thing, but i'm not sure if its still flooding or what's happening this time.

Cheers guys.

sgs · Post by **sgs** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:06 pm

the manifold sees the most vacum when idling!! except when engine braking of course

I would check for air leaks ofter the TB.

Doesn't seem to be any leaks in any of the intake pipes. The throttle seems to be fine, opens and closes, there is a tiny gap when it is closed.

Correct me if im wrong but shouldnt the throttle butter fly be completly closed? isnt idle controlled by the IAC valve?

Sohcturbs · Post by **Sohcturbs** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 6:36 pm

It is but all the idle sensors are gone...

ManaMushroom · Post by **ManaMushroom** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:02 pm

The idling is fine now, took it for a good run yesterday and now the only issue I've got is the power cut when coming on to boost around 3-4k revs.

Tried fiddling with the ecu wires but nothing stays solid. Any other tips?

Cheers