oils ain't oils

zoomzoom · Post by **zoomzoom** » Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:10 pm

doing the first 500k run in oil change this weekend and was wondering what everyone finds works best in these engines,price of a 5ltr bottle not being a prob,
using a shell 15/40 to run in on .......
anyone?

zoomzoom

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:41 pm

You should have run in on a proper 'run in oil'! After that, anything thinner than 15wblah blah is asking for blowby.
IIMHO I wouldn't be as fussed with the oil as with the quality/frequency of oil filter change.

Damo

zoomzoom · Post by **zoomzoom** » Wed Jul 27, 2011 8:25 pm

i used that oil cause thats what the builder told me to use for the first 500k
that said i'll be using anything with a magnet in the way of oil filter and doing the 1500,5000,10000 and every 10000/15000k after that or if i get bored one weekend in between

ps what would you of used to run it in on instead of the diesel oil i using now

zoomzoom

photoglossy · Post by **photoglossy** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:54 am

Do a change @ 100km, 1000 km, then every 5-10000km after.

You are waiting to long to do your changes it seems

ctchme · Post by **ctchme** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:44 am

photoglossy wrote:Do a change @ 100km, 1000 km, then every 5-10000km after.

You are waiting to long to do your changes it seems

I agree photoglossy, you should be doing at least an oil change every 5000 k's. helps prevent it turning to sludge, or over burning.

Personally, in all of my cars, im using royal purple, and in the exa will be using 20w50. if like most ppl though, if u cant afford the huge cost for royal purple, i'd only recommend nulon, its australian made, and is made without all the crap in other oils, would strongly suggest u not run shell, unless ur using a fully synthetic oil as they are refined poorly, have seen too many cars running shell have engines seize

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 11:08 am

Interestingly for my Golf R, VW DO NOT recommend a 'run-in' oil change and only do them every 15000km.

Historically I have religiously done oil changes at 5000km on all my turbo cars and would certainly recommend that to anyone else doing there own servicing.

Post by **tassuperkart** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:41 pm

Damo wrote:You should have run in on a proper 'run in oil'! After that, anything thinner than 15wblah blah is asking for blowby.
IIMHO I wouldn't be as fussed with the oil as with the quality/frequency of oil filter change.

Damo

Hes using a diesel oil. Perfect! its what I use and reccommend for new engines.

Those boutique fancy synthetic oils like Royal Purple are only necessary in a full blown circuit race engine.
If your happy to unload rediculous amounts of cash on them thats fine but youll get no benefit from them over everyday motor oil 20-50 in even a thrashed daily.

To claim that Shell oils in particular are rubbish is just that, Rubbish.
It will be based on something you have "heard" or what some m8 told you and not based in any way on technical fact.
The fact the engines seized on the oil is coincidence.
Surely you know that the base oils stock for every Australian brand comes from the same refinery and just has some additives added and packaged for the particular brand?

The absolute majority or running in, and the associated metal particles is over and done with well before 500K's.
In fact the vast majority of running is is achieved in the first 20 minutes.
Its important that the impurities from break in are flushed out hence the immediate oil changes after a build.

Beyond that, your just wearing your engine out so you might as well get up it.

I advocate NO further running in at all after the first 20 minutes or so right after a total new build if the engine was built to stated/published tolerance and not some funky clearance set dreamt up by some funky engine spanner!
In fact, I "run" my race engines in during practice/qualifying!!!

L8r
E

zoomzoom · Post by **zoomzoom** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:18 pm

thank you Oracle it was you i was hoping to hear from
yes engine was built to said spec, dropped spare head and manifold into same builder tuesday for rebuild and match porting just for kicks

next question,Walbro or Bosch in the way of pumps?price aside, though there is a $100 diffidents
looking for reliably and longevity

zoomzoom

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:05 pm

tassuperkart wrote:
Damo wrote:You should have run in on a proper 'run in oil'! After that, anything thinner than 15wblah blah is asking for blowby.
IIMHO I wouldn't be as fussed with the oil as with the quality/frequency of oil filter change.

Damo
Hes using a diesel oil. Perfect! its what I use and reccommend for new engines.

Those boutique fancy synthetic oils like Royal Purple are only necessary in a full blown circuit race engine.
If your happy to unload rediculous amounts of cash on them thats fine but youll get no benefit from them over everyday motor oil 20-50 in even a thrashed daily.

To claim that Shell oils in particular are rubbish is just that, Rubbish.
It will be based on something you have "heard" or what some m8 told you and not based in any way on technical fact.
The fact the engines seized on the oil is coincidence.
Surely you know that the base oils stock for every Australian brand comes from the same refinery and just has some additives added and packaged for the particular brand?

The absolute majority or running in, and the associated metal particles is over and done with well before 500K's.
In fact the vast majority of running is is achieved in the first 20 minutes.
Its important that the impurities from break in are flushed out hence the immediate oil changes after a build.

Beyond that, your just wearing your engine out so you might as well get up it.

I advocate NO further running in at all after the first 20 minutes or so right after a total new build if the engine was built to stated/published tolerance and not some funky clearance set dreamt up by some funky engine spanner!
In fact, I "run" my race engines in during practice/qualifying!!!

L8r
E

At the time of printing my comment, I was no awares of the diesel oil. So jam that in yo pipe old man.

Run in oil is same price as any other anyway. So price is a non issue.

I still like the idea of changing the filter more often than the oil. Regardless how old the oil is, I know I don't want the filter on bypass and pumping around all the crap the oil washes off.

Damo

Post by **15exa** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:35 pm

zoomzoom wrote:

next question,Walbro or Bosch in the way of pumps?price aside, though there is a $100 diffidents
looking for reliably and longevity

zoomzoom

speaking from experience i would say bosch

zoomzoom · Post by **zoomzoom** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 5:34 pm

15/40 is a diesel no matter who makes it
so after reading what all had to say i got a 4ltr bottle of gulf western 20/50 (aust made) for $15.99 from shit cheap and these a ryco filter in the shed
so now just gotta find a bucket for the old oil
thats all

zoomzoom

ps bosch was my first choice they make they thing and make it well can't really go wrong with a 50yr old name

Valentich · Post by **Valentich** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 10:05 pm

gulf western is great 710 (OIL)
I had a long chat with one of there tech guys a while ago.
They make it to higher specs than most oils.
Much much better than mobile. and heaps cheaper.
I don't know why more people don't use it.

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:40 pm

zoomzoom wrote:15/40 is a diesel no matter who makes it
so after reading what all had to say i got a 4ltr bottle of gulf western 20/50 (aust made) for $15.99 from shit cheap and these a ryco filter in the shed
so now just gotta find a bucket for the old oil
thats all

zoomzoom

ps bosch was my first choice they make they thing and make it well can't really go wrong with a 50yr old name

Roger, I missed the lack of 'W' after the 15, my bad.

Damo

paul w · Post by **paul w** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 2:08 pm

I remember back in the 80s talking to one of the Castrol lab techs about the oil in my motorcycle.
I was using the cheapest available, and his (suprisingly honest) reply was that so long as I changed it regulary, all was good. The issue was changing the stuff - the more often, the better.

micksetn12 · Post by **micksetn12** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:17 pm

i got told to use the cheapest oil you could find is this true?