Car stalling and won't start

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 4:32 pm

Hay all been awhile I no. Did the head on the poosar now it will start cold no hastle but after a random amount of driving it will start missing then stall and won't start for around 10 to 15 minutes then it does it all over again could that be due to the cass giving out or another issues according the ecu the only issue is the air con witch is normal and the idle switch

Thankyou all for your time
Matthew

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 7:59 pm

Please anyone the car is stuck on the side if the road would be nice to drive it home

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:23 am

Classic CAS drama.
L8r
E

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 8:55 am

Thought so ok new dizzy it is is there away to fix the original cas or is it dead and it's time to dig a grave lol

Thanks all
Matthew

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 2:58 pm

Yep. Replace the CAS. Old Petroject part number was......36011
Try another dissie first tho. It could be a failed coil or PTU as well but usually its the CAS.
L8r
E

madn12 · Post by **madn12** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 3:24 pm

Someones selling one on ebay atm if you need one
Link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/nissan-et-tu ... 0720145362

sashN12 · Post by **sashN12** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 6:25 pm

try turning on the diagnostics on the ecu, and see what that that tells u. worked for me

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:05 am

Ok will try that thanks E also I have tried the ecu error checking but that on showed up idle switch, just have to find a dizzy down my way now

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 12:54 pm

pulsar parts wont 170 for a second hand one whats the go there last year i got a second hand one from them for around 40 bucks thats just silly

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:16 pm

E as you said it could be the coil or the PTU both of those if died woulnt allow it to start full stop would it where as when the CAS dies it will and then when cool down start and do it all over again. is that rite as the car will start just die after a bit say 15 mins of driving then 20 mins later it will start agian.
the reason for asking is im waiting on a dizzy so this could help rull out those other issues.

thankyou mate means alot

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:01 pm

I had a bit of success by pulling apart the harness which attaches to the base of the dizzy, plucking out the individual female spade connectors and giving them a slight squash so they bite down a little better on the male spades.
Mine was a similar drama, only my poosar would start and drive fine when cold, and run fine when warm. But as soon as I would stop the engine when warm, it wouldn't start again for around an hour. PITA!!

Damo

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:39 pm

Damo wrote:I had a bit of success by pulling apart the harness which attaches to the base of the dizzy, plucking out the individual female spade connectors and giving them a slight squash so they bite down a little better on the male spades.
Mine was a similar drama, only my poosar would start and drive fine when cold, and run fine when warm. But as soon as I would stop the engine when warm, it wouldn't start again for around an hour. PITA!!

Damo

Thats what myne was doing at the start then this one time i gave it some push and go and pop fart skyline missing sound and it didnt start till it cooled down enuff,

i have gotten a spear dizzy of madn12 on here thankyou mate, for testing perpises, lets just say on expection of my dizzy (will put pic up tommorow) it was horible what appears to be dry oil all sorts of jazz going on there i have also tryed your trick damo with the terminals thankyou for that, i have just been for a half hour drive thought adelaide hills with both labour and reving to 4500rpm in order to get some heat in there, it pulls alot stronger then the last dizzy and the timing doesnt jump all over the place like with the last dizzy mentioned in other post in the past, so im guessing it was just a really dodgy dizzy

the drive to work tomorow (27kms) will tell me know for shore if its going to do it again lol.

Thankyou all matthew

madn12 · Post by **madn12** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 2:49 am

awesome news

now you owe me a spin sometime soon lol

madn12 · Post by **madn12** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 2:51 am

awesome news

now you owe me a spin sometime soon lol

et_rider · Post by **et_rider** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:56 am

Well it made it into work ok bit ratly but it pulls so much better with that dizzy in i dont have to drive on boost in order to stop it missing and trying to die.

The only thing that confused me and it may have been due to working on it at 9:00 last night but the cap goes on this dizzy upside down (confused so am I)
Now the way i no its up side down is that number 4 lead is at the top left this has neva been the case with that other dizzy, now i tryed putting it on the same way as the other and like most dizzys that cap wont line up (the dizzy i got did not come with a cap).

Could any one shed some light on this for me i haven't had this issue b4 the dizzy came of a leaded modal from memory and mine is unleaded there was some stuffing around with the plug in order to get it in but it went in all the same.

What i got and what i used where:
1 dizzy
1 rotor button (bit warn)
1 cas
1 lot of internatls
1 cable from dizzy to loom

i used:
1 dizzy
1 cas
1 lot of internals

i used my plug as its had to be spliced into the loom due to not finding the correct plug type at pulsar parts some time ago, the connection was done in a rush and wires just intwined and then taped up dowt that would cause issues with the running of it though.

thankyou all
matthew