Flywheel machining - where in Melb?

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:11 pm

What sort of mobs do this work?

Anyone know a cheap joint to have it done in Melbs?

Don't need it lightened, just cleaned up for a new clutch.

Post by **shanec86** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:30 pm

http://www.autobrakeservice.com.au/

get mine done there

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:04 pm

Cheers : )

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:48 pm

...Geez, $110 sounds a bit steep, doesn't it?

Post by **shanec86** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:56 pm

hmm not sure what they charge walk in, but its only about $40 trade

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:15 pm

ANY engine reco shop Kimmo. Its not a specialise or funky job. Anywhere.
L8r
E

Post by **shanec86** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:56 pm

tassuperkart wrote: Anywhere.

just got back from KFC, but they looked at me funny when i asked them to machine the flywheel?

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:20 am

*boom-tish*

...Just rang a reco joint, $60.

That's more like it : )

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:02 pm

Hey, this seems a bit pointless since the flywheel's friction face is smooth as glass. Not the merest hint of any ridges or scoring...

Unless someone can give me a good reason it needs doing anyway, I reckon I'll give it a miss.

Here's a thing: I forgot to notice which way the clutch plate belongs...
Is it meant to be this way?

Or this way?

I'm hoping the fact they're kinda different doesn't mean anything...

Oh yeah, the six bolts holding the flywheel on had these crumbling plastic sleeves... they've met their maker now. I'm hoping they're not necessary for re-assembly... reckon I can get away without em?

Post by **tassuperkart** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:28 pm

shanec86 wrote:
tassuperkart wrote: Anywhere.
just got back from KFC, but they looked at me funny when i asked them to machine the flywheel?

Yoo, eeeediotttt!

ET87 · Post by **ET87** » Tue May 03, 2011 1:44 pm

brake n clutch warehouse in thomastown.. 9465 9344 if u need a clutch as well n they make braided lines too.

2fast2stop · Post by **2fast2stop** » Tue May 03, 2011 10:23 pm

Flywheel is not meant to be smooth as glass. That would suggest it's glazed and needs machining.Machin the flywheel. For the 40 or 50 bucks it I'll cost ya you'll regret it if you don't. In regards to which way the clutch plate goes - the flat side goes on the flywheel. Im Sure If you tried the other way it would not lay flat.

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Sat May 07, 2011 1:29 pm

If the flywheel isn't smooth as glass, how long you figure before clutch useage makes it so? I call baloney, particularly since the clutch feels perfect. Maybe even a little grabby at first, if anything.

Also, I'm not in the habit of asking utterly stupid and pointless questions. That clutch had the clearance to go in either way. As far as I could make out, there seemed to be no functional difference in flipping the old clutch on the left, except a slight change in where it'd sit along the box's input shaft splines. But due to the replacement's greater asymmetry in that regard, I feared there was a possibility putting it in the wrong way might actually make a difference, like not quite or only just fitting cause I'd run out of spline.

In the end I checked the manual to see which side that spring carrier sat on. I strongly suspect it doesn't make any difference (except maybe to the pattern of grooves in the friction material), as long the splines are happy.

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sat May 07, 2011 4:19 pm

Awww hawhaw it can make a SHITLOAD of difference in some cases to the point where you cannot replace the clutch cover.

Try it inside out on the flywheel and Im willing to bet the cushion drive assembly will sit on the flywheel bolts!
I mean, "A" particular plate may sit inside out due to its funky design but that would be the exception, NOT the rule.

The reason the flywheel faces are machined is to expedite the process of "running" the clutch in.
Clutch break in is crucial for smooth and shudder free engagement over the full life of the clutch. Same for brakes and cylinder walls/rings.

Its much the same rationale as machining disks when fitting new pads or glaze breaking cylinder bores when fiting new rings.
You can get away with it but the running in process is extremely tricky to perform and get right and more often than not, re-ringed engines use more oil than they did BEFORE they were re-ringed.
New pads on old disks can easily burn up due to incomplete pad to disk face contact and badly glaze local areas on the disk and pads resulting in poor performance for a long time.
Can take some months to bed in pads on used disks if the wear is significant.

At the very least, break the glaze on your flywheel face with some 240 W&D.

L8r
E

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Sat May 07, 2011 4:33 pm

tassuperkart wrote:At the very least, break the glaze on your flywheel face with some 240 W&D.

That's a different tune than the one you played when I asked you about it via PM... : /