Bastard won't start again

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:06 pm

I had been driving for about 30 seconds and the car started running a bit rough. I pulled over to check under the bonnet and couldn't get it going again. I was close enough to home to push it. After checking for spark and checking the temp sensor with a multimeter it started. It was stubborn and I had to keep a bit of throttle on to keep it running. It seemed ok so I thought I'd try to go to the shop again. Won't even fire. Spark seems ok and the plugs are very slightly damp. I suspect it's getting fuel but maybe not enough. I loosened the fuel line after the filter without the car running and fuel came out. Just before giving up I noticed that the fuel prime wasn't working although it had been up to that point.
I haven't had to touch anything for about a year and a half so I've forgotten a lot of what I know. Has anyone had something similar?

Android 360 · Post by **Android 360** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:20 pm

if the fuel isn't priming then check to see if the relay is clicking when you switch the key to 'on' it should click once, then about 5 seconds later click again. if it doesn't click then try switching the relay. Good luck

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 3:48 pm

Well there's no clicking going on now. The thing still wasn't firing when the prime was working though. The fuel pump relay is the green one above the fuse box, right?

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 2:03 pm

I replaced the EFI relay with one that certainly used to work in the spare car. Checked fuse. Still no fuel pump. Suggestions?

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 4:51 pm

Paul Smith wrote:I replaced the EFI relay with one that certainly used to work in the spare car. Checked fuse. Still no fuel pump. Suggestions?

Check for power across the fuse holder.

Damo

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 5:00 pm

It has power.

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:48 am

I replaced the ECU and the pumps now work. It'll start with throttle down quite a bit when cold. Doesn't run evenly though. After it's run once it won't start again. I can smell fuel and the plugs are wet but not dripping. I have checked the temp sensor by heating it with a multimeter connected and it seems to be ok. I don't know what to do with it now apart from burn it to the ground.

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:14 am

Check and clean the injector plugs at the injectors. Make sure they hold on firmly to the injectors with the little wire spring through the clip. The manual also tells you the resistance you should be able to measure from the ECU for each injector. I hit mine with WD40, help prevent corrosion and water issues etc...

The Exa I bought a while back had me, my father-in-law mechanic and the previous owner scratching our heads for ages. Turned out the injector plug clean and replacing he retaining spring fixed it. From what I can figure, when the firing signal is lost or degraded the injector goes full open or too much open causing these run issues.

hope this helps.

C

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:32 am

I used something similar to WD40. Made no difference. I do that every now and then anyway. My manual has no mention of the resistance to the injectors (Haynes).

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:32 pm

I'll check when I get home what they are supposed to be.

C

Oh, my Dad recently gave me his old manual (genuine Nissan) so I have 2. Interested?

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:24 pm

It ran again once the engine had cooled. Rough under 3,000 RPM. Wouldn't restart again of course. I'm suspecting the 4th AFM now.

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:12 pm

check between pins 101, 104, 105, 102 (cyl 1 to 4 in that order) checked to body needs to be battery voltage. injector resistance = 2.35 ohm at injector.

C

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:24 am

Sounds like the classic water temp sensor shenanigans!

Do a diagnostics to be confirm. Or,

Once the engine is cold again, start it. As you have said, it should run for 10-30 secs before overfueling and dieing. Once it has stalled, disconnect the green fuel pump relay, and try and restart it. It should start (after a several cranks) and run for 5-10 sec before fuel pressure falls too low. If this is the case, it means either water temp sensor is shagged, or wiring from it to the ecu is shot.

To test the wiring, get a 1k ohm resistor and bridge it across the water temp harness. This will simulate something like 70-90deg (operating temp) and will not trigger any additional fuel during running conditions. The engine should start from warm almost immediatly, possibly running a little unstable for the first 5secs then comming good.

From cold with the resistor, engine will be a lot harder to start (but will start with a little convincing) and will be rough till water temp is above 40deg or so. If the resistor doesn't do anything, the wiring will be shagged. If the resistor does work, sensor may be stuffed.

Damo

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:45 am

It turned out to be the AFM yet again. Previously the AFM's have died slowly but this problem was immediate which is why I thought it was something else.

Who's got a good, working AFM they want to sell because they've gone over to a programmable ECU?

ETONE · Post by **ETONE** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:24 pm

pm sent