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E15et in a 120y,1000,1200,sunny,vanette
E15et in a 120y,1000,1200,sunny,vanette
hey guys i have a datto 1000 ute which ive put a e15et motor into. conversion was easy as including wiring factory computer ect. did anybody wanna know or did anybody wanna post it on n12 for future referance? the whole conversion cost me about $600 including motor and fitting. let me know if anybodys interested
- photoglossy
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e15et rwd
where do i start. i used a stock datto 1200/120y box but a 60 series A series box would be better or even an auto. u have to use the 60 series thrustbearing and carrier its a little longer than the 1200 one.
leave the entire engine stock except u have to use a stock E series rocker cover for height in a 1000 and the oil cooler has to be cut in half so its just a round cylinder that holds the oil filter. next u have to take out a valve and plug up the 2 holes that would normaly pass to the cooler side (bypass the cooler). i also had to put the A series ring gear on the E series flywheel (no more ring gear probs thankgod) and used a A series starter motor. the engine backing plate has to be grinded back so the starter can connect to the gearbox. the E series turbo starter motor comes in from the wrong side and is completly different. the oil cooler has to be cut to fit the starter motor in. i had to cut a small round hole so that the dizzy could stick through the firewall, i suggest making a boltable round cap to cover this (like extending the firewall back a little) sounds harsh but u cant see it from the engine bay. the turbo has to be turned around so u have to twist it the right way to get it to fit what would be backwards on the stock manifold (hope that makes sence). the engine mounts i used were stock 1200 ones but i made my own engine brackets (cost $60 to get the exhaust bloke to weld it up 4 me) i used a VL commodore fuel pump and the stock computer with loom was piss easy to wire up. took me 1 1/2 hours to solder it to my 1000's original loom and that was in the dark with a torch.
i havnt put it into anything else except my datto 1000 ute which has the smallest engine bay of the lot. motor and loom computer ect cost me about $400 at u pull it. ive used a VL throttle body and also want to put my t25g on aswel so in a 620kg rear wheel drive car ths thing should go good for under $1000.
i dont know how to post pics but if someone gives my there email i can email the pics. i apologise if u think some of my work is dodgy but i built it on a very tight budget in the dirt of my backyard not knowing if i could pull this of.
leave the entire engine stock except u have to use a stock E series rocker cover for height in a 1000 and the oil cooler has to be cut in half so its just a round cylinder that holds the oil filter. next u have to take out a valve and plug up the 2 holes that would normaly pass to the cooler side (bypass the cooler). i also had to put the A series ring gear on the E series flywheel (no more ring gear probs thankgod) and used a A series starter motor. the engine backing plate has to be grinded back so the starter can connect to the gearbox. the E series turbo starter motor comes in from the wrong side and is completly different. the oil cooler has to be cut to fit the starter motor in. i had to cut a small round hole so that the dizzy could stick through the firewall, i suggest making a boltable round cap to cover this (like extending the firewall back a little) sounds harsh but u cant see it from the engine bay. the turbo has to be turned around so u have to twist it the right way to get it to fit what would be backwards on the stock manifold (hope that makes sence). the engine mounts i used were stock 1200 ones but i made my own engine brackets (cost $60 to get the exhaust bloke to weld it up 4 me) i used a VL commodore fuel pump and the stock computer with loom was piss easy to wire up. took me 1 1/2 hours to solder it to my 1000's original loom and that was in the dark with a torch.
i havnt put it into anything else except my datto 1000 ute which has the smallest engine bay of the lot. motor and loom computer ect cost me about $400 at u pull it. ive used a VL throttle body and also want to put my t25g on aswel so in a 620kg rear wheel drive car ths thing should go good for under $1000.
i dont know how to post pics but if someone gives my there email i can email the pics. i apologise if u think some of my work is dodgy but i built it on a very tight budget in the dirt of my backyard not knowing if i could pull this of.
Good work Matto!,
Interested in what you mean by:
Again great work!
C
Interested in what you mean by:
andMattoRX7 wrote:the oil cooler has to be cut in half so its just a round cylinder that holds the oil filter
Any pictures you can get would also help a lot.MattoRX7 wrote:the oil cooler has to be cut to fit the starter motor in
Again great work!
C
u preety much have to make the oil cooler as round as the oil filter its self. if u leave the filter on it and cut the actual cooling part of then it will leave 2 holes on the filter side. (i used a hacksaw) a oil in and oil out. u have to block theese holes and there is a bypass valve incase of blockage to the cooler part . u have to take that out so the oil can go straight through to the filter.
once u have done that the starter will fit in. the cooler part of the whole oil cooler blocks the starter from going into the gearbox thats why u have to cut the cooler in half and discard the cooler part.
i threaded those 2 holes so later i could run an external cooler.
once u have done that the starter will fit in. the cooler part of the whole oil cooler blocks the starter from going into the gearbox thats why u have to cut the cooler in half and discard the cooler part.
i threaded those 2 holes so later i could run an external cooler.
- tassuperkart
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Umm dude, why didnt you just remove the cooler assembly altogether rather than getting all funky with a hacksaw and fucking around?????
You only have to push in the small spring loaded ball valve that every NA engine has into the drilling in the block and then screw your oil filter straight on.
Or add a remote filter assembly and place the filter wherever you like.....
Not dissing M8 but seems like a lot of fucking around thats all!
L8tr
E
You only have to push in the small spring loaded ball valve that every NA engine has into the drilling in the block and then screw your oil filter straight on.
Or add a remote filter assembly and place the filter wherever you like.....
Not dissing M8 but seems like a lot of fucking around thats all!
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
yeh nice work mate is doin this to his sierra atm
Low Slow and Sarcastic
Always Oscar Mike on the AO
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Always Oscar Mike on the AO
www.twitter.com/garagepanda for my latest Inane comments
www.TasSportImages.com
top work,
FEAR THE N12 FURY!!!.....
More kick than a goat on crack
Mods Done:
3" zaust turbo back, EGI Manifold , Lowered, 20% tint, Japspec Stearing rack, ,intercooled, hypergear tr28kai, suede lether intereor, Electric blue repsray, 16's, koni shocks all round, whiteline sway bars, strut brace, microtech with quad bosch coils.
Mods to come:
A TUNE AND ENJOY
More kick than a goat on crack
Mods Done:
3" zaust turbo back, EGI Manifold , Lowered, 20% tint, Japspec Stearing rack, ,intercooled, hypergear tr28kai, suede lether intereor, Electric blue repsray, 16's, koni shocks all round, whiteline sway bars, strut brace, microtech with quad bosch coils.
Mods to come:
A TUNE AND ENJOY
- Cherry Boy
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- digginganddirt
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