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Converting ET to Exa Engine mounts
Converting ET to Exa Engine mounts
I know a few people are interested in getting rid of the ET 'shock absorber engine mount in favour of the Exa link versions.
Spoke with Paull today and he had done it. He said it made a big difference and was worth doing - espcially if you shock absorber was there since new!
So, Karl and Darren get on with the Exa-cism and convert you ETs to the dark side
C
(ohh as I understand it the post '86 et were made this way anyway)
Spoke with Paull today and he had done it. He said it made a big difference and was worth doing - espcially if you shock absorber was there since new!
So, Karl and Darren get on with the Exa-cism and convert you ETs to the dark side
C
(ohh as I understand it the post '86 et were made this way anyway)
ealry models have teh solid arm mounts and the ET has the later mini shock absorber mounts front and rear
Low Slow and Sarcastic
Always Oscar Mike on the AO
www.twitter.com/garagepanda for my latest Inane comments
www.TasSportImages.com
Always Oscar Mike on the AO
www.twitter.com/garagepanda for my latest Inane comments
www.TasSportImages.com
Mmmm, may aswell, is it all exa's or just certain years
FEAR THE N12 FURY!!!.....
More kick than a goat on crack
Mods Done:
3" zaust turbo back, EGI Manifold , Lowered, 20% tint, Japspec Stearing rack, ,intercooled, hypergear tr28kai, suede lether intereor, Electric blue repsray, 16's, koni shocks all round, whiteline sway bars, strut brace, microtech with quad bosch coils.
Mods to come:
A TUNE AND ENJOY
More kick than a goat on crack
Mods Done:
3" zaust turbo back, EGI Manifold , Lowered, 20% tint, Japspec Stearing rack, ,intercooled, hypergear tr28kai, suede lether intereor, Electric blue repsray, 16's, koni shocks all round, whiteline sway bars, strut brace, microtech with quad bosch coils.
Mods to come:
A TUNE AND ENJOY
Haha,
Callum - You are right on my tail. After the last problem at Sandown - You were there I think - I went down to the wreckers and pulled the front and rear 'stabilisers' out of an 86 Exa.
I Liked the look of them. So I started by just installing the rear one and it has a made a considerable difference. I need to install the front one ASAP.
Can you get new rubbers for them? Because I chose the best ones but they are still a little loose/worn in thier postion allowing some non-rubber movement if you get my drift.
Darren.
Callum - You are right on my tail. After the last problem at Sandown - You were there I think - I went down to the wreckers and pulled the front and rear 'stabilisers' out of an 86 Exa.
I Liked the look of them. So I started by just installing the rear one and it has a made a considerable difference. I need to install the front one ASAP.
Can you get new rubbers for them? Because I chose the best ones but they are still a little loose/worn in thier postion allowing some non-rubber movement if you get my drift.
Darren.
Race it.
Actually Darren, in the back of my mind I have 'urethane' replacements.....and I seem to remember someone contemplating getting more main mounts made up......maybe they could consider getting the links made as well (or instead).
What do you think Karl? [hint, hint]
Actually, shouldn't be to hard to do these ourselves. they are quite small.
C
What do you think Karl? [hint, hint]
Actually, shouldn't be to hard to do these ourselves. they are quite small.
C
Yeah,
The problem is that they are not perfectly round, they are more of a square shape. And also there is metal insert pressed into them for the bolt to go through. I am sure this is not a biggy but it makes for more of a challenge.
The sqareish shape of them would make them tricky to turn up. You would probably have to measure and mill them to fit.
Ill have a look at the square one tonight that is not in the car yet.
Darren.
The problem is that they are not perfectly round, they are more of a square shape. And also there is metal insert pressed into them for the bolt to go through. I am sure this is not a biggy but it makes for more of a challenge.
The sqareish shape of them would make them tricky to turn up. You would probably have to measure and mill them to fit.
Ill have a look at the square one tonight that is not in the car yet.
Darren.
Race it.
I was thinking more like pouring them in-situ in the link. Take the old bushes out and cut the centre tubes free. then put the link on a piece of MDF with a dowl holding the tube in the right place. Pour in urethane from one of these guys:
http://www.ausurethane.com/contact.html
http://www.erapol.com.au/australia.php
http://www.aus-styrene.com.au/contact.php
let it set, remove the MDF mount and viola!
(a bit like this guy did: http://martybugs.net/magna/mount.cgi and http://martybugs.net/Pintara/mount.cgi and http://importnut.net/motormount.htm)
C
http://www.ausurethane.com/contact.html
http://www.erapol.com.au/australia.php
http://www.aus-styrene.com.au/contact.php
let it set, remove the MDF mount and viola!
(a bit like this guy did: http://martybugs.net/magna/mount.cgi and http://martybugs.net/Pintara/mount.cgi and http://importnut.net/motormount.htm)
C
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Those solid round mounts go a fair way in tightening up engine rotation. However, they dont limit the rotation at all. Its those little shocks or the tie rods from the atmo engines that limit the rotation.
The atmo tie rods have an elongated hole to allow the engine to rotate. The shocks are the same but they will dampen rather than allow the engine to "spring" into position.
However, if you want to really tighten up the whole show its an easy job.
There are a variety of rubber/urethane suspension bushes around which could be cut down to fit in place of those little shocks.
Hell you could even just press out the stock rubber bushes and cut the eyes off the top of the stock shocks if you were really desperate!.
Measure accurately the distance between those shock mounting holes. Front and rear seperately.
Just get some tube that the bushes will press into and weld them to some stout black pipe.
Id use something pretty decent tho...prolly 15 mm OD minimum x 3mm wall thickness for the strut part of the tie rod.
Press in your urethane bushes and bolt it in place of the shocks.
There you go easy isnt it!
Solid urethane mounts almost totally limiting any engine rotation.
Id personally go for some rubber mounts rather than urethane to give some vibration dampening tho. Just me.
The engine will be hell noisy thru the chassis on power but i spose thats a moot point for most of you.
Itd drive me round the fucken bend!!!!!
L8tr
E
The atmo tie rods have an elongated hole to allow the engine to rotate. The shocks are the same but they will dampen rather than allow the engine to "spring" into position.
However, if you want to really tighten up the whole show its an easy job.
There are a variety of rubber/urethane suspension bushes around which could be cut down to fit in place of those little shocks.
Hell you could even just press out the stock rubber bushes and cut the eyes off the top of the stock shocks if you were really desperate!.
Measure accurately the distance between those shock mounting holes. Front and rear seperately.
Just get some tube that the bushes will press into and weld them to some stout black pipe.
Id use something pretty decent tho...prolly 15 mm OD minimum x 3mm wall thickness for the strut part of the tie rod.
Press in your urethane bushes and bolt it in place of the shocks.
There you go easy isnt it!
Solid urethane mounts almost totally limiting any engine rotation.
Id personally go for some rubber mounts rather than urethane to give some vibration dampening tho. Just me.
The engine will be hell noisy thru the chassis on power but i spose thats a moot point for most of you.
Itd drive me round the fucken bend!!!!!
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
E, I hear you, and good thing it's just a track car.....
I've been ring round a bit and finding someone in Melbourne who will actually poor the new mounts isn't proving easy....The closest was the purple pig (www.purplepig.com.au). And none of these places had a cold mix available to buy. Mighthave to try the distributors.
C
I've been ring round a bit and finding someone in Melbourne who will actually poor the new mounts isn't proving easy....The closest was the purple pig (www.purplepig.com.au). And none of these places had a cold mix available to buy. Mighthave to try the distributors.
C
BINGO!
http://www.dalchem.com.au/index.php?opt ... Itemid=232
This stuff should be OK if you prepare it IAW the instructions.
Mix in a clean container (not a butter container 'cause they are from styrene, but ice cream of takeaway should be OK)
$30.80 for 1.25kg (comes in two parts)
mix by weight - not volume
1.25Kg will make more than a litre (volume) but less than 1.25L
If you want it to bond to the link, you'll need to prime with a polyurethane safe primer.
This one will give a Shore Hardness of 60-68A, as recommended by http://martybugs.net/magna/mount.cgi but other are available, the number quotes the softer limit. So 60A=60-68A and 70A=70-78A etc....
Delivery is $25 anywhere in Aus.
$25 get you colour - enough to do 5 litres (normal colour is amber)
Any moulding bits that you intend to remove should be plastic or similar, use a release agent, like Ease Release 200 Aerosol, but clean oils (like spray on olive oil) and waxes may be OK.
C
http://www.dalchem.com.au/index.php?opt ... Itemid=232
This stuff should be OK if you prepare it IAW the instructions.
Mix in a clean container (not a butter container 'cause they are from styrene, but ice cream of takeaway should be OK)
$30.80 for 1.25kg (comes in two parts)
mix by weight - not volume
1.25Kg will make more than a litre (volume) but less than 1.25L
If you want it to bond to the link, you'll need to prime with a polyurethane safe primer.
This one will give a Shore Hardness of 60-68A, as recommended by http://martybugs.net/magna/mount.cgi but other are available, the number quotes the softer limit. So 60A=60-68A and 70A=70-78A etc....
Delivery is $25 anywhere in Aus.
$25 get you colour - enough to do 5 litres (normal colour is amber)
Any moulding bits that you intend to remove should be plastic or similar, use a release agent, like Ease Release 200 Aerosol, but clean oils (like spray on olive oil) and waxes may be OK.
C