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Clutch Adjustment
Clutch Adjustment
Hi Boy's,
I was out for a strap tonight giving the ET a hard time, just testing the intercooler out and dosing innocent unsuspecting fellow drivers with their windows down with my intercooler noise..... yay!
Anyway, I noticed that when on boost and at around 3500 - 4000rpm, I'm getting the feeling like when a clutch slips. Like, its reving harder but not going anywhere if you know what I mean.
I have not touched the clutch since I put the engine in and I do remember at the time I tighened the cable some more because it helped reverse get in easier without crunching. There is fuk all (none really) play on the cable or any of the other components there, thats how tight I did it.
Point is, can someone give me the exact procedure for adjusting this thing? When you push the pedal, how far down should the clutch go before it does its thing. Pictures would be great too if you got 'em.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Sash
I was out for a strap tonight giving the ET a hard time, just testing the intercooler out and dosing innocent unsuspecting fellow drivers with their windows down with my intercooler noise..... yay!
Anyway, I noticed that when on boost and at around 3500 - 4000rpm, I'm getting the feeling like when a clutch slips. Like, its reving harder but not going anywhere if you know what I mean.
I have not touched the clutch since I put the engine in and I do remember at the time I tighened the cable some more because it helped reverse get in easier without crunching. There is fuk all (none really) play on the cable or any of the other components there, thats how tight I did it.
Point is, can someone give me the exact procedure for adjusting this thing? When you push the pedal, how far down should the clutch go before it does its thing. Pictures would be great too if you got 'em.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Sash
I heve a weird problem and i thought it was my clutch...sometimes when i go down from 3rd to 2nd it will make that grinding noise like if u was driving and tryed sticking it in gear without the clutch and it just grinds..but i think its my clutch and something to do with my gear box
My old exa I created from granny spec to a neat little BRIGHT car: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3903
Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute
Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute
Get your own thread! lolbaz wrote:I heve a weird problem and i thought it was my clutch...sometimes when i go down from 3rd to 2nd it will make that grinding noise like if u was driving and tryed sticking it in gear without the clutch and it just grinds..but i think its my clutch and something to do with my gear box
Cheers
Sash
Mine did that aswell my car does lots of things. I think it was because i didnt have the clutch right inbaz wrote:I heve a weird problem and i thought it was my clutch...sometimes when i go down from 3rd to 2nd it will make that grinding noise like if u was driving and tryed sticking it in gear without the clutch and it just grinds..but i think its my clutch and something to do with my gear box
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Sase
You have adjusted the cable sos the release bearing is "riding".
Slipping clutch on heavy clamp will burn and glazed you plate in quick time and out she comes.
Release that adjuster until you have a slight amount of movement in the clutch arm. mebbe a couple of mm.
this should translate to about 15 odd mm of free movement in the pedal beafore ANYTHING happens.
Now, hope like mad you have not glazed that plate. be careful with it and the plate should come "back" to you. keep slipping and burning it and out it comes.
L8tr
E
You have adjusted the cable sos the release bearing is "riding".
Slipping clutch on heavy clamp will burn and glazed you plate in quick time and out she comes.
Release that adjuster until you have a slight amount of movement in the clutch arm. mebbe a couple of mm.
this should translate to about 15 odd mm of free movement in the pedal beafore ANYTHING happens.
Now, hope like mad you have not glazed that plate. be careful with it and the plate should come "back" to you. keep slipping and burning it and out it comes.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
Sounds like good advice tassuperFart....... thanks
Even if it was "glazed" (which I say it would be after all this time driving it), I don't mind replacing the clutch. Pain in the arse, but it'll get there.
So I should actually be able to move the clutch arm/lever by hand?
Fark, mine was tight as, no way I could move it without and aid of some sorts.
I'll give it a crack tommorrow and let ya'll know.
Cheers
Sash
Even if it was "glazed" (which I say it would be after all this time driving it), I don't mind replacing the clutch. Pain in the arse, but it'll get there.
So I should actually be able to move the clutch arm/lever by hand?
Fark, mine was tight as, no way I could move it without and aid of some sorts.
I'll give it a crack tommorrow and let ya'll know.
Cheers
Sash
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
also your clutch cable might be stressed (especially if its been there 20 years) i replaced my clutch cable, got it from repco and made a world of difference!
Members Ride: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6786
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
i got it cheap ... $120 rrp pops into my head...
Members Ride: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6786
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
Re: Clutch Adjustment
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------SashET wrote:Hi Boy's,
I was out for a strap tonight giving the ET a hard time, just testing the intercooler out and dosing innocent unsuspecting fellow drivers with their windows down with my intercooler noise..... yay!
Anyway, I noticed that when on boost and at around 3500 - 4000rpm, I'm getting the feeling like when a clutch slips. Like, its reving harder but not going anywhere if you know what I mean.
I have not touched the clutch since I put the engine in and I do remember at the time I tighened the cable some more because it helped reverse get in easier without crunching. There is fuk all (none really) play on the cable or any of the other components there, thats how tight I did it.
Point is, can someone give me the exact procedure for adjusting this thing? When you push the pedal, how far down should the clutch go before it does its thing. Pictures would be great too if you got 'em.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Sash
Hay there i have had the same problem and found the answer yay he says down below you have a pic with arrows pointing to a bracket now as every one nows the et's exa's gearbox area are the exact same as the standerd n12 witch means they are weekish now the problem i had is i had to keep bringing the clutch up because it was doing the same thing and then found when i was testing it one of my mates said the this bracket was bending and i mean not a little movemnet he seen it with the car running its a big movment so what we did is pull the bracket of welded very strong plates to the top and bottom and i havent had one problem since and im running a very heavy duty clutch now and it still smoth as silk between each gear change good luck mate