help me too

crita_76 · Post by **crita_76** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 10:15 pm

Hi guys,
i will give you the whole story. a few weeks ago i bought an ET. the last owner blew the turbo and didnt replace it so his daughter could drive it on her Ps here in vic. He removed the compressor wheels and just put a bolt throught the shaft hole. when i bought it it was running fine, with a flat spot when you accelerate. i have replaced the turbo with a second hand one and at the same time took the head off to have a look at the pistons and bores, look OK. put it all back together and fired it up. idled ok and seemed to be all good. Then went for a drive. the engine wouldnt rev past 3000. OK up to 3000 but then nothing. now it wont even idle. when i turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs for about 10 seconds the stops. start it up and it the engine runs for about 3 seconds and then stops. you cant even rev it without it stalling. I had an ET about 10 years ago and remember the same thing hapening. spent $900 and didnt even fix the problem. the car came with a few spares including a fuel pump ( i was assured it was good). I have put new plugs and dizzy cap on as well. with my old ET you just gave the computer a slap and you were off again. tried this as well as checkiing all the ECU plugs. What is my next step. Any help would be apreciated.

Cheers
Christian

Panda_ET · Post by **Panda_ET** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 10:47 pm

air leak dude i made that mistake once after not replacing the oil cap . id say when u have hit boost its blown a hose off somewhere that would cause it o run for opnly a rew seconds if u can get it started

i hope thats all it is

Post by **The Renegade** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 10:47 pm

The only thing i can think of is an air leak.

Mental blank.

gettu · Post by **gettu** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 3:39 am

sorry about my english

this does not sound like an airleak, if air was leaking it would be heard (hood open)

possible reasons in order of "likelyhood"

- bad/loose/no connection of power transistor/ignition ground wire to distributor (when removing the head you took it off)

- head drivebelt a notch off
- bad ignition leads
- bad ignition coil

- cracked distributor cap (i once bought a new one and it was cracked off the box)
- wrong ignition timing (check with xenon, this also off after head removal)
- mixed fuel lines
- glockked fuel filter (don't remember how to spell that)
- T/B sensor lead loose
- bad fuel pump
- other wiring
- air flow meter
- bad ECU

Check the ECU fault codes from the LED:s

photoglossy · Post by **photoglossy** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:32 am

Im jumping squarely in the 'air leak' boat. But it could possibly be a mixture or that and a bad coil. Seeing as you only worked with the turbo/intake i would think it to be an air leak. Check all the connections/clamps.

djvass · Post by **djvass** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:36 am

defintly go back over what you pulled apart and have a look just incase you did forget to connect something back up or it is in the wrong spot.

If you are still having problems i might be up in geelong this weekend, might pop around and have a look.

David

crita_76 · Post by **crita_76** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:11 pm

Sounds like there could be an air leak from the 5cm round "thing" thats on the left side of the inlet manifold. What is this and could it be the problem.

Panda_ET · Post by **Panda_ET** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:43 pm

that the overboost valve it can leak only if its stuck open tho aaahhhh this is sounding possible now it may have hit the overboost and stuck open. the problem sounds very much like a air leak

Post by **The Renegade** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:17 am

block that sucker off and see if it fixes the problem.

good luck.

SammyET · Post by **SammyET** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 9:24 am

But be careful once you've blocked it off... you may overboost before you know it, if something else isnt right.

Sam

Post by **The Renegade** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 9:57 am

wassup393 wrote:But be careful once you've blocked it off... you may overboost before you know it, if something else isnt right.

Sam

This is true, keep a keen eye on your boost guage.

crita_76 · Post by **crita_76** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:03 pm

Thanks for all the tips guys. Been flat out at work the last few days. 12 hour shifts. That and a wife and three kids at home to keep happy. should get a chance to look at in in the morning. night shift tomorrow night. The excess boost valve, does it vent from where the top meets the sides. if so would a piece of rubber bike tube stretched over the top of it work to test it. it could still vent then. and would make it heaps easier to check?
i will let you know how i go. Oh yeah the ecu is not showing any fault codes. can i asume from tis that the ecu is OK. or can they shit themselves without any error codes.
Cheers
Christian

dexi_styles · Post by **dexi_styles** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 1:11 am

hey i had the samething, i screwed the dignostic screw on the ecu in and run it and mine stopped. turned out to be the ecu, might of been faulty. plus i dont have the overboost valve, all mine was doing was wouldnt rev over 3000rpm or when turbo kicked in, i checked for air leaks, fuel problems, etc but when i run it in dignostic mode it stopped, turned the screw back and bob was my uncle.
hope you sort it out, or it just fixes itself out without much trouble or problems
adam

crita_76 · Post by **crita_76** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 12:00 pm

can someone tell me more about this diagnostic screw

crita_76 · Post by **crita_76** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:31 am

Problem solved. split hose into the turbo. still idling a bit rough but i will sort that out later. thanks for all your help guys.