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Bleeding Cooling System?
Bleeding Cooling System?
Does anyone know the procedure on the ET's to bleed the cooling system?
ACL Pistons, 226/236 cam, T28 Turbo, FMIC, FJ20T Injectors, Wolf V4 ECU, NPC Clutch, VL TB, Custom High Mount Manifold, N13 Internals G/B, 3" SS Exhaust, Walbro 500hp Pump.
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
- Paul Smith
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:55 pm
- Location: Brisbane
I don't think it needs bleeding as such. It just seems to work properly on it's own.
Mods
T28 @ 18 PSI, Jap Inlet Manifold, VL TB, MSD Ignition, Supra Cooler, 3" Dump and 3" Exhaust, Coolingmist Water Injection, AMG Mags, Koni Adjustables, Whiteline Rear Swaybar, CMS Brake Rotors, Stage 2 Cam, 5th Injector
T28 @ 18 PSI, Jap Inlet Manifold, VL TB, MSD Ignition, Supra Cooler, 3" Dump and 3" Exhaust, Coolingmist Water Injection, AMG Mags, Koni Adjustables, Whiteline Rear Swaybar, CMS Brake Rotors, Stage 2 Cam, 5th Injector
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Just ensure you have the "jiggler valve" or the small hole in the thermostat plate positioned uppermost or it will never bleed.
If you dont have one in the thermostat then you have the wrong one!
Either get the right one or drill 2mm hole in the widest part of the thermostat plate.
Other than that, just run it with the rad cap off untill the thermostat opens and the water level stabilises.
L8tr
E
If you dont have one in the thermostat then you have the wrong one!
Either get the right one or drill 2mm hole in the widest part of the thermostat plate.
Other than that, just run it with the rad cap off untill the thermostat opens and the water level stabilises.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- thepurplepulsar
- Administrator
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:48 pm
- Location: Whistler, Canada.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Re: Cooling System
All you have to do is fill your radiator, let it warm up, put your hand over the hose that your thermostat is on, hold your hand on the hose, when it is to hot to hold on to the water should go down in the radiator, top it up and your done.
Laterz
Nixamus...
Laterz
Nixamus...
Cheers guys.
I think my HG might be leaking water or the head has cracked. I warmed it up today to get all the air out of the system and there is a slight amount of steam from the exhaust, unless it was just because we had a really cold night. It's nothing major you can barely see it and the car is running fine.
I'll see how it goes when i take it out for a drive. I think it might be best i pull the head off, inspect the head and replace the head gasket with new head bolts or get it o-ringed.
I think my HG might be leaking water or the head has cracked. I warmed it up today to get all the air out of the system and there is a slight amount of steam from the exhaust, unless it was just because we had a really cold night. It's nothing major you can barely see it and the car is running fine.
I'll see how it goes when i take it out for a drive. I think it might be best i pull the head off, inspect the head and replace the head gasket with new head bolts or get it o-ringed.
ACL Pistons, 226/236 cam, T28 Turbo, FMIC, FJ20T Injectors, Wolf V4 ECU, NPC Clutch, VL TB, Custom High Mount Manifold, N13 Internals G/B, 3" SS Exhaust, Walbro 500hp Pump.
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Condensation and steaming from the zorst is quite normal after startup. look at modern car zorsts steaming like mad an water pouring out of the muffler tip on a cooler morning.
Before you get all funky and get your hands oily, why dont you do a simple pressure test on the cooling system first to put your mind either at ease or troubled eh?
Might save a lot of effort and money.
L8tr
E
Before you get all funky and get your hands oily, why dont you do a simple pressure test on the cooling system first to put your mind either at ease or troubled eh?
Might save a lot of effort and money.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
well modern cars steam because they have a cat on them (i don't) but yeah i'm not going to pull it apart just yet. Remember it did pressurise the cooling system on the dyno.
The radiator isn't bubbling and its staying clean but i haven't really taken it for a long drive all week to do a proper test.
The radiator isn't bubbling and its staying clean but i haven't really taken it for a long drive all week to do a proper test.
ACL Pistons, 226/236 cam, T28 Turbo, FMIC, FJ20T Injectors, Wolf V4 ECU, NPC Clutch, VL TB, Custom High Mount Manifold, N13 Internals G/B, 3" SS Exhaust, Walbro 500hp Pump.
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Taken from Wikipedia
A three-way catalytic converter has three simultaneous tasks:
1. Reduction of nitrogen oxides to nitrogen and oxygen: 2NOx → xO2 + N2
2. Oxidation of carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide: 2CO + O2 → 2CO2
3. Oxidation of unburnt hydrocarbons (HC) to carbon dioxide and water: 2CxHy + (2x+y/2)O2 → 2xCO2 + yH2O
That was my understanding why newer cars steam a lot when cold.[/b]
A three-way catalytic converter has three simultaneous tasks:
1. Reduction of nitrogen oxides to nitrogen and oxygen: 2NOx → xO2 + N2
2. Oxidation of carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide: 2CO + O2 → 2CO2
3. Oxidation of unburnt hydrocarbons (HC) to carbon dioxide and water: 2CxHy + (2x+y/2)O2 → 2xCO2 + yH2O
That was my understanding why newer cars steam a lot when cold.[/b]
ACL Pistons, 226/236 cam, T28 Turbo, FMIC, FJ20T Injectors, Wolf V4 ECU, NPC Clutch, VL TB, Custom High Mount Manifold, N13 Internals G/B, 3" SS Exhaust, Walbro 500hp Pump.
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
hmm could be because you live in Tassie?
lol i dunno, moisture trapped in the exhaust from overnight.
Or the exhaust heating up the humid air?
Ok maybe there is nothing wrong with my car. Hopefully anyway.
lol i dunno, moisture trapped in the exhaust from overnight.
Or the exhaust heating up the humid air?
Ok maybe there is nothing wrong with my car. Hopefully anyway.
ACL Pistons, 226/236 cam, T28 Turbo, FMIC, FJ20T Injectors, Wolf V4 ECU, NPC Clutch, VL TB, Custom High Mount Manifold, N13 Internals G/B, 3" SS Exhaust, Walbro 500hp Pump.
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)
237hp@18psi
13.52@108.95mph (street trim, leaky hg)