Can some please post up a pic of their air cond. bottle looking thing on the passenger side.
Just want to see what side the pressure switch is on....
Cheers
Sash
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Air Cond. Pic
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Paul Smith
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Re: Air Cond. Pic
SashET wrote:Can some please post up a pic of their air cond. bottle looking thing on the passenger side.
Just want to see what side the pressure switch is on....
Cheers
Sash
that "bottle" is called a reciever dryier.
NIXAMUS
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tassuperkart
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It should have "In" stamped quite clearly on it Sase.
It does matter which way it goes tho, not critically, but does matter at the end of the day.
Nixamus is correct. Its a sort of accumulator with a bag of silicagel in there to remove any moisture in the system.
OK refrigeration lesson for today.
Moisture in the system can also freeze at the TX valve (thermal expansion valve) and block it off and will remain so until the water melts away.
Moisture is a main reason that AC systems eventually fail.
AC systems left de-gassed for extended periods can ingest fresh air and moisture due to repeated and severe heating and cooling leading to rooted components.
Now, compressor oil does not "wet" (inhibit) the metal surfaces well like, say motor oil does (Ie: it runs off and dries out quite quickly, made worse by temp cycles) and rusting of critical components occurs.
This is particularly so around the compressor shaft seal which is a dynamic carbon/ceramic seal very similar to a water pump seal.
The TX valve is another victim of rusting and it can be a real devil of a job removing them from many cars where the TX valve is fitted inside the evap box, requiring the removal of most of the dash to get the evap. core out.
Those of you who have removed an entire dash and replaced in know how much of an arsehole of a job it can be.
As an aside, we used to allow 3 days to R&R a heater/evap core in XA/XB and XC Fords.....god what and arsehole of a dash setup.
Thats a lot of hours at *blah* dollars per hour labour.
Anyway, this kind of compressor seal relies on O rings sealing the compressor shaft to the rotating carbon part of the seal and the shaft housing to the stationary ceramic half of the seal.
Both these parts have precision ground sealing faces that can be rendered useless by even just touching them with bare fingers during assembly. Just the acid from fingers is enough to eventually corrode the sealing faces and the seal will slowly leak down forever.
As mentioned before, compressor oil is very poor at "wetting" or inhibiting components and its basically the film of oil on this carbon seal which keeps your gas in.
Furthermore, the shaft can rust underneath the inner o ring and around the ceramic seal o ring.
A dry carbon seal (due to extended lack of use) can damage very quickly when akshullee asked the business and let the gas out in fairly short time.
If the shaft, or the ceramic seal housing has rusted under their rubber O rings, then you can kiss your expensive compressor goodbye or get used to monthly or even weekly regasses.
Furthermore, the aluminium components such as the evap. core and the condenser can corrode and become porous resulting in expensive re-gassing every couple of months or even weeks.
Rubber hoses can suffer much the same fate.
This is why its imperative to run an automotive AC system at least EVERY DAY..thats right, read it again... EVERY DAY, for long life and the system regularly serviced and the reciever-dryer CHANGED regularly.
That small bag of silicagel in the reciever/dryer can only cope with so much moisture and moisture gets into the system everytime its opened up regardless of how long the system is sucked down before re-gassing.
Its always risky cobbling up a system out of second hand bits from wrecks and these systems usually, or at least can become very troublesome after a time of running. Sometimes slowly, sometimes very quickly.
Refrigerant gas leaks are notoriously difficult to trace in the very short term and sometimes the only reliable way to trace a freon leak is to look for oil stains around the system, particularly on rubber hoses that might have become slightly porous or brittle after a long time of being repeatedly heated and cooled while being de-pressurised.
There you all go. You all now qualified refrigerant technicians!
L8tr
E
It does matter which way it goes tho, not critically, but does matter at the end of the day.
Nixamus is correct. Its a sort of accumulator with a bag of silicagel in there to remove any moisture in the system.
OK refrigeration lesson for today.
Moisture in the system can also freeze at the TX valve (thermal expansion valve) and block it off and will remain so until the water melts away.
Moisture is a main reason that AC systems eventually fail.
AC systems left de-gassed for extended periods can ingest fresh air and moisture due to repeated and severe heating and cooling leading to rooted components.
Now, compressor oil does not "wet" (inhibit) the metal surfaces well like, say motor oil does (Ie: it runs off and dries out quite quickly, made worse by temp cycles) and rusting of critical components occurs.
This is particularly so around the compressor shaft seal which is a dynamic carbon/ceramic seal very similar to a water pump seal.
The TX valve is another victim of rusting and it can be a real devil of a job removing them from many cars where the TX valve is fitted inside the evap box, requiring the removal of most of the dash to get the evap. core out.
Those of you who have removed an entire dash and replaced in know how much of an arsehole of a job it can be.
As an aside, we used to allow 3 days to R&R a heater/evap core in XA/XB and XC Fords.....god what and arsehole of a dash setup.
Thats a lot of hours at *blah* dollars per hour labour.
Anyway, this kind of compressor seal relies on O rings sealing the compressor shaft to the rotating carbon part of the seal and the shaft housing to the stationary ceramic half of the seal.
Both these parts have precision ground sealing faces that can be rendered useless by even just touching them with bare fingers during assembly. Just the acid from fingers is enough to eventually corrode the sealing faces and the seal will slowly leak down forever.
As mentioned before, compressor oil is very poor at "wetting" or inhibiting components and its basically the film of oil on this carbon seal which keeps your gas in.
Furthermore, the shaft can rust underneath the inner o ring and around the ceramic seal o ring.
A dry carbon seal (due to extended lack of use) can damage very quickly when akshullee asked the business and let the gas out in fairly short time.
If the shaft, or the ceramic seal housing has rusted under their rubber O rings, then you can kiss your expensive compressor goodbye or get used to monthly or even weekly regasses.
Furthermore, the aluminium components such as the evap. core and the condenser can corrode and become porous resulting in expensive re-gassing every couple of months or even weeks.
Rubber hoses can suffer much the same fate.
This is why its imperative to run an automotive AC system at least EVERY DAY..thats right, read it again... EVERY DAY, for long life and the system regularly serviced and the reciever-dryer CHANGED regularly.
That small bag of silicagel in the reciever/dryer can only cope with so much moisture and moisture gets into the system everytime its opened up regardless of how long the system is sucked down before re-gassing.
Its always risky cobbling up a system out of second hand bits from wrecks and these systems usually, or at least can become very troublesome after a time of running. Sometimes slowly, sometimes very quickly.
Refrigerant gas leaks are notoriously difficult to trace in the very short term and sometimes the only reliable way to trace a freon leak is to look for oil stains around the system, particularly on rubber hoses that might have become slightly porous or brittle after a long time of being repeatedly heated and cooled while being de-pressurised.
There you all go. You all now qualified refrigerant technicians!
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
JESUS..... What brought that on?
Anyway, I have replaced all the seals (o-rings) on the system and I'll be getting the oil in the compressor replaced when I re-gas it.
With gas leaks, I'll be using that dye that they put into it to trace any leks easily under that special black/purple light they use.
I've tried to cover every base but at the end of the day, if its rooted, then not much I can do about it except replace the fuked bits....
Cheers
Sash
Anyway, I have replaced all the seals (o-rings) on the system and I'll be getting the oil in the compressor replaced when I re-gas it.
With gas leaks, I'll be using that dye that they put into it to trace any leks easily under that special black/purple light they use.
I've tried to cover every base but at the end of the day, if its rooted, then not much I can do about it except replace the fuked bits....
Cheers
Sash
Just a quick note, if you dont have a Refigerant licence be aware that there are huge fines for people gasing up there air conditioning. The only reason i say this is my mate got smacked with a big fine, even though he did it all correctly. A new government organisation namly "ARC" monitor all gas sold. Just a helpfull warning.....
NIXAMUS
NIXAMUS
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tassuperkart
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