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oil lamp
oil lamp
Hey guys, ive recently noticed while the engine is running cold in the morning, the oil warning lamp is lit up for about five minutes - after which it starts flickering then turns off when the engine has warmed up. Is this an indication that the oil pump is slowly dying? oil level is fine..
thanks guys
thanks guys
- Paul Smith
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:55 pm
- Location: Brisbane
- Ash
- Administrator
- Posts: 3246
- Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:17 am
- Location: Wangaratta, Victoria, Australia
dude, seriously get it checked! i wouldn't be driving it! if you do, do not flog it! you'll end up with a dead engine if the pump goes.
but then again, i drove my first car roughly 90km's or maybe more? without any oil in it! it was an old 86 Hyundai excel (Mitsubishi engined) i didn't check the oil for ages then i did a decent sized drive then thought shit , i'd better check the oil! so i did and absolutely no oil whatsoever! not even a single drop! go figure? it never really used much either! but i topped it back up and just kept on abusing the hell out of that thing and not once did it give me any mechanical trouble! i ended up driving it to the wreckers about a year and a half later with fucked suspension and clutch but the engine was still fine! talk about tough!
just to add, i really tried to kill that bloody engine aswell! just for fun and i didn't give a toss about it! i used to put it in neutral and hold the foot to the floor more sometimes. be doing roughly 80/90kmh and just shove it in first. rally bash the hell out of it revving it to the moon and back! for bloody ages i did that!
so i ran it with no oil, revved the hell out of it, held it flat to the floor valve bouncing the bloody thing and it still lives! do that with an E15T and see how long it lasts!
sorry for the rant. just sharing some good memories.
Ash.
but then again, i drove my first car roughly 90km's or maybe more? without any oil in it! it was an old 86 Hyundai excel (Mitsubishi engined) i didn't check the oil for ages then i did a decent sized drive then thought shit , i'd better check the oil! so i did and absolutely no oil whatsoever! not even a single drop! go figure? it never really used much either! but i topped it back up and just kept on abusing the hell out of that thing and not once did it give me any mechanical trouble! i ended up driving it to the wreckers about a year and a half later with fucked suspension and clutch but the engine was still fine! talk about tough!
just to add, i really tried to kill that bloody engine aswell! just for fun and i didn't give a toss about it! i used to put it in neutral and hold the foot to the floor more sometimes. be doing roughly 80/90kmh and just shove it in first. rally bash the hell out of it revving it to the moon and back! for bloody ages i did that!
so i ran it with no oil, revved the hell out of it, held it flat to the floor valve bouncing the bloody thing and it still lives! do that with an E15T and see how long it lasts!
sorry for the rant. just sharing some good memories.
Ash.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
ok this is what happened this morning - When i started the car the oil light came on like expected, so while it was still cold i pulled off the oil feed line to the turbo to see if it was getting anything - not even a drop! I put the feed line back and waited till it warmed up a bit. After 5mins or so, the temp went up n the oil light turned off. So i pulled it off again to check and this time oil pissed out like a fountain - what the fuks goin on here - how can there be nothing while its cold and then pour out when it heats up?? Could one of the galleries be partially blocked with anything..?
cheers
Wissam,
cheers
Wissam,
Hmm, I'd try pouring a couple of litres of turps through the engine when it's warm and running (to pump it through the motor to try and flush out any gunk - I'd switch it off a few seconds later), draining the oil, and chucking in some fresh stuff for starters.
Just a crazy thought - I've never heard of anyone trying this. Don't let it run for long at all with the thinned-out oil if you give it a go.
Sounds like some serious sludge factor happening...
Either that, or for some reason the drive to your oil pump only works when the engine's warm, which seems pretty weird...
Just a crazy thought - I've never heard of anyone trying this. Don't let it run for long at all with the thinned-out oil if you give it a go.
Sounds like some serious sludge factor happening...
Either that, or for some reason the drive to your oil pump only works when the engine's warm, which seems pretty weird...
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
Something ain't right. You're 100% positive that there's enough oil in it huh?
I'd definately doi what Kimmo suggested and have the oil system cleaned out.
I'd definately doi what Kimmo suggested and have the oil system cleaned out.
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Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
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Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
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oil level is fine - you guys sure about this turps idea? anyone ever tried this? i mean that oil is going to thin to pretty much nothing, and besides, solvents always leave a slight residue afterwards which will mix with the next lot of oil. What about the engine flush products you can just buy..? thanks for the ideas
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
I dunno about the turps .... in theory it's good, but I dunno.
I've seen some workshops that have a proper flush system, pumps a cleanser thru your engine, sucks it out, then they put nice new oil in. Was about $120 a few years back.
OR
I have found on old bottle of this Wynns Oil System Flush in my garage. You put it in with your old oil, run it for 15 mins (I think it said 15, label was pretty crap) drain it and then put fresh oil in. Maybe you should try that.
I've seen some workshops that have a proper flush system, pumps a cleanser thru your engine, sucks it out, then they put nice new oil in. Was about $120 a few years back.
OR
I have found on old bottle of this Wynns Oil System Flush in my garage. You put it in with your old oil, run it for 15 mins (I think it said 15, label was pretty crap) drain it and then put fresh oil in. Maybe you should try that.
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Diesel works just as well. But I dont know how long you can run the engine with it in there before damaging something.
Just get yourself that engine flush shit and she'll be right. At least you get the instructions with it!
BTW, what grade engine oil is in there now? Sounds like its viscosity is really dependant on your engine temp..... well, more than usual anyway.
When engine bearings are on their way out, they will usually give you shit oil pressure. But this doesnt sound like the case with yours.
Cheers
Sash
Just get yourself that engine flush shit and she'll be right. At least you get the instructions with it!
BTW, what grade engine oil is in there now? Sounds like its viscosity is really dependant on your engine temp..... well, more than usual anyway.
When engine bearings are on their way out, they will usually give you shit oil pressure. But this doesnt sound like the case with yours.
Cheers
Sash
- Paul Smith
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:55 pm
- Location: Brisbane
Maybe the oil pump is so badly worn it has to get hot and expand a bit to drive the oil properly. Don't know. Try replacing the pump and the sender.
Mods
T28 @ 18 PSI, Jap Inlet Manifold, VL TB, MSD Ignition, Supra Cooler, 3" Dump and 3" Exhaust, Coolingmist Water Injection, AMG Mags, Koni Adjustables, Whiteline Rear Swaybar, CMS Brake Rotors, Stage 2 Cam, 5th Injector
T28 @ 18 PSI, Jap Inlet Manifold, VL TB, MSD Ignition, Supra Cooler, 3" Dump and 3" Exhaust, Coolingmist Water Injection, AMG Mags, Koni Adjustables, Whiteline Rear Swaybar, CMS Brake Rotors, Stage 2 Cam, 5th Injector