Yeah, I know that our fuels are about as good as flat VB, but the E15ET - no difference whatsoever.BQ.05.TD wrote:but in jap there shittes fuel is like 97-97 octane. and there best is 101-103 octane. thats y all STIs evos etc make less power over here cause they have to de-tune them for out shit fuel.The Renegade wrote:Actually, there's no difference between the leaded & unleaded engines.BQ.05.TD wrote: NO NO NO u must use at least 95 octane. if its a leaded model u have to use high octane fuel as leaded fuel had a higher octane back in the day. and if u dont use it then u will get detonation and pinging real easy
Remember, these things all came from Japan where they have unleaded or unleaded.
But, the 95RON is a good idea, and if you're running more boost, more octane is your friend.
N12Turbo.com lanyards are now available! Click here to visit the shop
Boost Issues
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
I dunno M8 but ive got a bit of a feeling that some of that manifold divider may have made its was into the zorst housing of the turbo.
This may explain the dodgey slow boost.
this happened to my Volvo truck turbo many years ago after the manifold began to disintegrate internally.
However, the only way your going to find this out is if you seperate the housing from the turbo core and have a look at the turbine wheel tips.
Thats your call.
L8tr
E
This may explain the dodgey slow boost.
this happened to my Volvo truck turbo many years ago after the manifold began to disintegrate internally.
However, the only way your going to find this out is if you seperate the housing from the turbo core and have a look at the turbine wheel tips.
Thats your call.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
lol sorry dude.
Mate, my engine is in bitz, which doesn't help.
I've just looked at 4 dozen engine bay pix and I can't find a clear one that shows it.
Damn you all for not taking clear pix of your charcoal cannisters!!!!
However, from a few partials, I think it might connect to one of the nipples off the throttle body.
I'll let you know if I find anything.
Mate, my engine is in bitz, which doesn't help.
I've just looked at 4 dozen engine bay pix and I can't find a clear one that shows it.
Damn you all for not taking clear pix of your charcoal cannisters!!!!
However, from a few partials, I think it might connect to one of the nipples off the throttle body.
I'll let you know if I find anything.
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
I've had the turbo off the car and didn't notice anything strange on the dump pipe side of things. The turbine wheel span pretty freely too and I did shake it around to see if anything would come out of it, but nothing did. Do you mean that I need to seperate the turbine side of things from the CHRA to see something? If so, is it easy to do and put back together, what would I be looking for?
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Nah your unlikely to see any damage on the outlet of the turbine.
Yep, you need to seperate the zorst housing from the core to have a look where it matters.
Not hard but they can be pretty difficult to seperate and you need to be very poatient.
Itll be pretty obvious any damage in there.
Last resort tho.
L8tr
E
Yep, you need to seperate the zorst housing from the core to have a look where it matters.
Not hard but they can be pretty difficult to seperate and you need to be very poatient.
Itll be pretty obvious any damage in there.
Last resort tho.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
Ok, I just went thru all my engine swap pix, and found 3 that kinda show the general area.
The top two are my old BRC engine, and the bottom one is my RRC engine
Unfortunately, you can't see in any of them where the bloody hell they go, but you get the general idea of where to look. I still think it goes somewhere on the throttle body of the RRC.
Anyhoo......
http://www.aussiecarforum.com/album_sho ... ic_id=1670
The top two are my old BRC engine, and the bottom one is my RRC engine
Unfortunately, you can't see in any of them where the bloody hell they go, but you get the general idea of where to look. I still think it goes somewhere on the throttle body of the RRC.
Anyhoo......
http://www.aussiecarforum.com/album_sho ... ic_id=1670
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Yeah Renegade, thats the hose I'm talking about. Argggh, there isn't a decent shot showing where it connects. Anyone else got one. Evan, I think I'll leave pulling the turbo apart as a last resort as you suggested and possibly move onto getting this ecu terminal thing sorted and really start looking for vacuum/boost leaks (i.e. replacing one hose at a time). Just as a matter of interest, If someone could tell me how to post pictures, I can show you pictures of the manifolds (before & after) and the turbo. Does it have something to do with the Img* button?
Sash
[/img]
Sash
[/img]
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
You need to host the pictures somewhere first. (eg: I use my website.)
The hit the IMG button, type in the URL of where the pic is, and then hit the IMG button again.
So the string should look like this:
The hit the IMG button, type in the URL of where the pic is, and then hit the IMG button again.
So the string should look like this:
Code: Select all
[img]http://www.geocities.com/the_renegade_2000/p.gif[/img]
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
photobucket springs to mind.
or imageshack.
There probably some aussie ones, I'm not sure.
or imageshack.
There probably some aussie ones, I'm not sure.
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Thanks Renegade, I got it going. See the pictures below of the exhaust manifolds (before & after - the original one in the car and the one I die grinded back). I also took a picture of the turbo exhaust side (should look black and sooty shouldn't it?). Sorry for the picture quality, but they were taken off my phone. Anyway, I'm still chasing a decent picture of where that vacuum line off the top of the charcoal canister goes too. Anyone?
Cheers
Sash
Cheers
Sash
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
Wow. That original manifold you were using is rat shit. If you turn the exhaust wheel by hand, see if you can hear or fell any obstruction at all, even a little crunching noise or anything. I think it'd be a miracle if none of that crap has fallen into your turbo.
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
yes you really do need to take the exhaust housing off to see if there is any damage. My old t25 never really boosted right, but it look fine with the exhasut housing on, one day i decided to rip the housing off (changed turbos) and what do you know, all of the blades on the inside where smashed, no wonder i had shit boost.
Advice taken, I will check out the inside of the exhaust section and see what I can find. I will not do this until I get my hands on another turbo tho (just incase I f*#k it up). I'm thinking t25g or t25. I've read that the t25 spools up quicker (but not as high) and the t25g has more lag but more top end. What do you guy's think, t25g or t25? Anyway, still chasing a pic of where that line goes from the top of the charcoal canister to _______???
Cheers
Sash
Cheers
Sash