Tuning Microtech ECUs

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:20 pm

K just a few things here.
Firstly Matt, who on earth advised you to use 500 plus CC injectors in a pissy 1500.
Id be going flat out to even explore the limits of injectors that size on my FJ20et at 25psi boost at 8000rpm. WOFTAM.
They will be a bastard to make run right down low and you will learn to dislike them very quickly.
Even stock injectors will support quite high boost pressures.

Cold start enrichment is a total no brainer to set up if there are no settings in there already. However, id be mighty surprised if the screens have no enrichment values in them.

Find the "Water" map in the fuel settings.
Start at the zero Deg. map and enter in 50% and evenly step down your settings in each map until your 68 Deg map has zero%.
Anything below zero set at 60%
Thats it.
Next find your "Crank" maps.
Have a look thru them and see what the percentage settings in there are. In the very cold maps, I have about 40 odd % enrichment form below zero to around 30 deg. reducing to about 10% at 68Deg map.
Again anything below zero deg set at about 50%

After that, wit until next cold morning, ignition on (dont start yet) and scroll thru the "Water" maps untill the active map corresponding to the water temp is displayed.
Star the car and let it idle or hold the revs at 1000rpm. Hit the "Prog" button and scroll up and down the percentage values until the thing runs the smoothest. Be quick about it as it will only stay in that map for a short while as it warms up.
Engine slowing, uneven (hard idle) and rough idle is too lean and a rythmic "hunting" kind of idle with black smoke (brrp brrp brrp brrp) too rich.
As the water temp rises and move out of the map your playing with, scroll up into the next active temp map and do the same again. And so-on and so-on.
Voila! Cold enrichment is done.
There is no black art to this.
However, you dont have much time in each temp map to get it right.
With practise youll get it just so very quickly.

Microtechs are affordable and quite reliable ECU's
Dom originally made them with the rotor crowd in mind.
The tuning handpeice is easy to use when you learn where the various maps are.
EMS stuff is a somewhat lesser known but direct competitor to Microtech in the budget ECU area but the tuning is done in an entirely different way which is at first very confusing but becomes second nature very quickly.

L8tr
E

Panda_ET · Post by **Panda_ET** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:27 pm

also i found with a lumpy cam a little extra timing at idle helps outs a lot as well

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:37 pm

Wolf and a few other ECUs have features such as idle stepoper motor control but at the very end of the day, thats to make the ECU's more compatible with cars that use that kind of clod start clobber in the first place.
Ie: fine if you actually have it fitted!

I use one of those simple generic Bosch cold idle compensator valve found on a zillion Jap EFI cars in the late 80's Probably a couple of dollars from pick-a-part.
Not quite so scientific as a stepper motor but work just as well.

There are a simple rotary disc valve that plumbs in between the air filter and the inlet plenum and let extra air in when cold to hold the revs up a bit.
They take bugger all time to fit.
They have a electrically heated bi-metallic strip in them to control the opening of the disk valve.
You run 12V +ive switched from the key to them and they open when cold and slowly close off as they heat up.
The valves must also be mounted to the head somewhere as they also are influenced by the temp of the engine. If not, they will open up when they cool off even tho the engine is still hot and the engine will run at about 1800 to 2000rpm until the valve heater heats up and closes it off again. This will piss you off major time as it did to me when i first tried one fitted onto the firewall!
They are adjustable to a certain extent and will hold the revs up for about 3 or 4 minutes slowly reducing to nothing.

I have one on both the ET andf the FJ20. The ET one breathes a little better and it runs at 1200 rpm cold and reduces to 1000 when warm. Yay!
The one on the FJ starts the car at 1000 rpm and thats where it idles regardless of the temp.
No need for fancy stepper controllers and such.
All too easy!
L8tr
E

Post by **shanec86** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:15 pm

Yea even i remember you posting that up on the old forum. A few people asked where you could get it from and realised its whats on my RB30. A mate just wrecked his VL so im gonna go knock it off that and fit it up to the pulsar. i am absolutly sick of having to side step the brake and accel when cold to stop it from dying!!

angel · Post by **angel** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:25 pm

tassuperkart wrote:Wolf and a few other ECUs have features such as idle stepoper motor control but at the very end of the day, thats to make the ECU's more compatible with cars that use that kind of clod start clobber in the first place.
Ie: fine if you actually have it fitted!

I use one of those simple generic Bosch cold idle compensator valve found on a zillion Jap EFI cars in the late 80's Probably a couple of dollars from pick-a-part.
Not quite so scientific as a stepper motor but work just as well.

There are a simple rotary disc valve that plumbs in between the air filter and the inlet plenum and let extra air in when cold to hold the revs up a bit.
They take bugger all time to fit.
They have a electrically heated bi-metallic strip in them to control the opening of the disk valve.
You run 12V +ive switched from the key to them and they open when cold and slowly close off as they heat up.
The valves must also be mounted to the head somewhere as they also are influenced by the temp of the engine. If not, they will open up when they cool off even tho the engine is still hot and the engine will run at about 1800 to 2000rpm until the valve heater heats up and closes it off again. This will piss you off major time as it did to me when i first tried one fitted onto the firewall!
They are adjustable to a certain extent and will hold the revs up for about 3 or 4 minutes slowly reducing to nothing.

I have one on both the ET andf the FJ20. The ET one breathes a little better and it runs at 1200 rpm cold and reduces to 1000 when warm. Yay!
The one on the FJ starts the car at 1000 rpm and thats where it idles regardless of the temp.
No need for fancy stepper controllers and such.
All too easy!
L8tr
E

hi evan, can you possibly remember the exact engine you got it off, i tried looking at the wreckers and could not find one, although im not sure what it actually looks like.

and shane the RB30 is that na or turbo or both and is that out of the vl only or skyline aswell. or if anyone has one or could pic me up one, i would gladly pay money for it and a little extra for you self.

Post by **shanec86** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:38 pm

Hey angel... they came on the R31 and VL rb30 and rb30et

its circled in blue the bit you need

angel · Post by **angel** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:59 pm

shanec86 wrote:Hey angel... they came on the R31 and VL rb30 and rb30et

its circled in blue the bit you need

thanks shane much appreciated, ill try and get one on the weekend/

"otary disc valve that plumbs in between the air filter and the inlet plenum and let extra air in when cold to hold the revs up a bit."

should i plump in in just before the throttle bodyor after ie off the manifold. And is it affected by boost, or can air only flow in one direction

cheers

Post by **shanec86** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:06 pm

i found the pics on how Evan hooked it up.

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ ... rowse/faec

angel · Post by **angel** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:52 pm

shanec86 wrote:i found the pics on how Evan hooked it up.

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ ... rowse/faec

ok i see what he has done, it sucking in air from before the throttle body and then feeding it to the manifold, so even if the car is on boost, it wont leak it because its a closed loop.

fantastic

thanks shane and evan for his pic

Ben Hewitson · Post by **Ben Hewitson** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:55 am

whats wrong with our little colst start device that we already have on the E15Et..? is that no good.? or are you guys tossing the Logs out and losing all those sensors.?

Post by **shanec86** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:14 am

Ben Hewitson wrote:whats wrong with our little colst start device that we already have on the E15Et..? is that no good.?

nope

remember, the amount of time engineers spent on getting these things right is rubbish, we think we can always do better

Ben Hewitson · Post by **Ben Hewitson** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:33 am

KK.. bugger.. well... i'll have to find something for my EGI manifold then...

Paul Smith · Post by **Paul Smith** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 3:36 pm

You can cheat a bit like I did. Where the air goes in to it just slip one of those tiny air filters onto it.

wis41 · Post by **wis41** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 3:54 pm

lmao - pulling himself to pieces hey? i think i might just find myself a few nice hills and open roads when the engine's back in and go from there. One thing though, does that mean those ecu maps posted on the site are no good for an mt series? cheers, ps. im shipping my car to tassie - so long as your still in once piece! lol
Sam

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 6:00 pm

tassuperkart wrote:K just a few things here.
Firstly Matt, who on earth advised you to use 500 plus CC injectors in a pissy 1500.

They came with the car when I bought it.

tassuperkart wrote:WOFTAM.

Sorry I don't know what this means

Anyway thanks for the info mate, I'll put it in tonight and give the rest a whirl tomorrow. Cheers buddy.