N12 Turbo Forums

48 mm side drafts are way too big for a 1500. drivability will be up to shit. i would be looking at more like 38 or 40mm. i once had 40mm dellortos on an 1800 and still lost a bit down low coming from a 32/36 downdraft.

I would get a carby kit for it. Pull it apart and give it a descent clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. Change the fuel filter too. At least you know it will be right then.

Sounds fine to me man.

No need to take the engine out. I have done a few clutches in FWDs myself. takes 4-5hrs. just have to support the engine with either a chain block or jack with a piece of timber so you dont force a hole in the sump. Can get a heavy duty valeo clutch kit for around $130. its really not that big a job...

Hi man. If your going a t25 with standard ecu I would be sticking with the stock cam. The t25 should spool up pretty early and you really want the cam to be most efficient at the same rev range. A More aggressive cam means It will run most efficiently at higher revs therefore you would want a t28 or...

Name: James Location: Calliope, QLD Year/ Model: 1985 ET Pulsar Colour: Originally classic white changing to light sapphire lustre. Period of ownership: ongoing project since may 2008. Performance: Yet to be run in. Engine Mods: - Fully reconditioned. - ACL Bearings, Seals, gaskets. - 1mm oversize ...

i think it's to do with being a monotorque head gasket. you shouldn't have to re torque them after a certain period if you do that procedure.

Hi. know this is a bit late but anyway...Just in regards to the welding of steam pipe. a 1 to 2mm air gap is preferred for a full peno weld using a tig machine. the pipe needs to be blocked both ends and purged with either argoshield or straight argon. a perfectly flat inside bead is possible using ...

i got mine through my local engine rebuilder straight from the acl catalogue.

make sure you torque the nut up to spec, cos that's what seats the bearing.

get new o-rings put in, and a regas and it will work fine.

i'd say that would be 1mm oversize, 40thou.

I think detonation and overheating would play a part in it also. If i was going to repair the crack myself i would remove the valve seat, grind it all out, clamp it down to a machine table and slowly tig it back up. after this i would stress relieve it, machine the gasket surface flat, tap the spark...

the problem is, if you don't grind all of the crack out and reweld the whole lot, it will just keep coming back. Then it will probably need to be restraightened and machined after that much welding.

I had the same problem with two of mine. I just searched around for a good one. I don't think it's really worth getting repaired versus the price of another head. those valve seats will have to be removed and i think the crack ends up going pretty deep into the spark plug thread. it will only gets b...